DEVELOPMENT OF THE COMPOSITION AND STUDY OF THE PROPERTIES OF A COSMETIC EMULSION USING COMPOSITIONS OF SILICONE AND SILICONE EXTRACT OF CALENDULA OFFICINALIS
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.35546/kntu2078-4481.2024.3.24Keywords:
emulsions, cosmetic silicones, polydimethylsiloxane, amodimethicone, silicone extracts, rheological properties, antioxidant capacity, sensory characteristics, Scoring method.Abstract
The article presents the results of using silicone and silicone extract of calendula officinalis in cosmetic emulsions, where polydimethylsiloxane Silicone Oil 350 cSt serves as an emollient for softening the skin, and the silicone extract acts as a carrier of beneficial substances for human skin derived from plant raw materials. The extractant for biologically active substances was a mixed silicone, amodimethicone BRB 1288. The optimization of the emulsion composition using a combination of polydimethylsiloxane Silicone Oil 350 cSt and plant extract of amodimethicone BRB 1288 was carried out through mathematical experimental design using a thirdorder Scheffé simplex-lattice design. The emulsion composition was calculated based on the optimization of mathematical models for the dynamic viscosity and skin moisture after applying the emulsion. The article presents the results of studies on the physicochemical, rheological, and organoleptic properties of cosmetic emulsions created using compositions of silicone extracts of calendula officinalis, aimed at obtaining cosmetic products with antioxidant properties and high consumer characteristics. Using the third-order Scheffé simplex-lattice design, the emulsion composition was optimized by varying the content of polydimethylsiloxane Silicone Oil 350 cSt and plant extract of amodimethicone BRB 1288 in the oil phase. Studies of the physicochemical and rheological properties of the developed emulsion showed that it is characterized by colloidal and thermal stability, a homogeneous structure, high viscosity, resistance to deformation forces, and a high degree of thixotropic recovery. The emulsion has a white, slightly yellowish color, is nearly odorless, has a light creamy consistency, and a uniform structure. The high antioxidant capacity of the developed emulsion was established using the FRAP method. According to the Scoring method, it was proven that the developed emulsion enhances sensory characteristics on the skin and achieves prolonged skin hydration after application.
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