DEVELOPMENT OF A LIPID MASK TECHNOLOGY FOR RESTORING DAMAGED HAIR
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.35546/kntu2078-4481.2025.4.1.19Keywords:
lipid mask, technology, equipment, technological scheme, cosmetic products, hair care, damaged hairAbstract
The problem of restoring damaged hair is critical due to the aggressive influence of chemical, thermal, and UV factors, which cause loss of natural lipids, dehydration, brittleness, and porosity. Current demand is focused on eco- friendly lipid masks that mimic the hair's natural protective barrier. The key mechanism of recovery is the replacement of lost lipids and proteins. Studies confirm that vegetable oils with medium-chain fatty acids penetrate the cortex, reducing porosity and minimising protein loss. Of particular interest are innovative biomimetic ingredients – low molecular weight hydrolysed proteins and lipid complexes (HMA Silky, Sunflohair™) to enhance absorption. The aim of the study is to develop a technology for the production of an effective and stable lipid mask for intensive restoration of damaged hair. A multi-component lipid mask with active ingredients has been developed: HMA Silky plant liposomal complex, SunflohairTM phospholipid complex, keratin hydrolysate, d-panthenol, sweet almond oil and shea oil in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, which ensures ease of application and a moisturising sensory profile. The emulsion base is stabilised by a synergistic system of plant-based cationic emulsifiers: Varisoft BTMS PLT MB and Genamin® CTAC. The cationic nature of the emulsifiers provides increased affinity for negatively charged damaged hair. A technology for the production of an emulsion lipid mask is proposed, with the determination of critical stages and technological control parameters for stabilising the O/W emulsion and the finished product. The organoleptic and physicochemical quality indicators of the developed lipid mask for the restoration and care of damaged hair have been established, namely pH 4.4 ± 0.2; homogeneous creamy consistency, high colloidal and thermal stability. The developed lipid mask with innovative lipid complexes and keratin hydrolysate is a safe and effective product for restoring damaged hair.
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