RESEARCH OF ACTIVITY AND STABILITY OF PROTEOLYTIC ENZYMES IN POWDERED COSMETIC POWDER

Abstract

The article investigates the total proteolytic activity and stability of proteases incorporated into an enzymatic cosmetic powder in dry form. The powder composition was substantiated from the standpoint of providing controlled cleansing and exfoliating effects while ensuring enzyme stabilization within a dry matrix. Particular attention was paid to the selection of carrier materials and auxiliary components capable of reducing enzymatic degradation under the influence of moisture and elevated temperature. A dose-dependent increase in total proteolytic activity from 960 to 1810 U/g was observed when the concentration of the powder in aqueous dispersion increased from 1.0 to 2.0 %, indicating the possibility of regulating the intensity of the cleansing effect by varying the product concentration during application. Stability studies demonstrated that under normal storage conditions for 6 months, more than 87 % of the initial enzymatic activity was retained, meeting the stability requirements for dry cosmetic formulations. Under accelerated storage conditions (40 °C and 75 % relative humidity), enzyme activity retention ranged from 69.1 % to 85.9 %, depending on the enzyme type and matrix composition, with actinidin exhibiting the highest stability. It was shown that formulations based on rice powder exhibited lower activity losses compared to kaolin-based compositions, indicating the advantages of organic carriers in enzyme stabilization. The obtained results confirm the potential of enzymatic cosmetic powders as effective, controlled, and safe skin cleansing products suitable for modern cosmetic and cosmeceutical applications.